Shower curtain, uneven walls

Aug 29, 2016

I finally fixed the shower curtain rail. It has gone up pretty level and hasnt fallen down yet. This curtain is designed to hang inside a bath so isn’t as long as I would like. To get the rail high enough there is a fair gap between the bottom of the curtain and the floor. However, since most of the “water creep” into the room is from when I shower and gets thrown into the room rather than water that has directly hit the floor. First use has shown my observation to be astute ! With the curtain closed there is much less water now in the room after showering and no clunky door to bash against the step and to keep clean. Result!

The design of the fixing bracket then the fixing of the rail makes fixing easy. I didn’t want to screw into the tiles for fear of cracking them so I have used Gripfill contact adhesive to fix the bracket to the tile. Gripfill seems to be effective but quick drying stuff. I had fixed the robe hook previously and as I feared the exposure of the Gripfill to air had formed a hard plug in the nozzle even though I had carefully covered the tip of the adhesive dispenser after use. After much prodding I got out some adhesive to stick the plastic brackets to the tiles. I will use some frame sealant around the exposed edge of the brackets to back this up, again as I did with the hook. Frame sealant or mastic is widely used as an adhesive as well as a sealant so I think the shower rail will be pretty secure with the adhesive and sealant.

I will put the sealant on the rail when I fill in the gaps in the skirting board and around the door frames.


There is something a bit alien about how that foam expands. It is messy stuffy when cleaning afterwards but it really fills those gaps and will provide a base for the flexible frame sealant.

Two patches on the stair walls had been unevenly bodged with plaster – easily visible under the old woodchip paper.

The photographs make the old patching look like an innocuous discolouration but the finish was incredibly uneven. I thought this was probably because there was a greater horror underneath – well there was a small horror. Under the patch was a peculiar mixture of “clinker cement” a small beam of wood and a block of wood. You can see one of the blocks of wood vertically looking like a brick to the right hand side of the patched area in the photo below. I chipped away the “cement” so the resulting surface was below the main surface of the wall. Of course, when you start on this kind of thing you can end up dislodging all the plaster on the wall. I have built up with exterior filler the large area I knocked out.


Strictly I should have used bonding plaster on the bare brick to bring up the level but I could only get bonding in a 25 kg bag and I had this exterior filler lying around. The texture of this filler is quite rough, which I have scored all over, so this should provide a decent key. I will finish off with fine filler that I will try to get as level as possible with the rest of the wall. It won’t be perfect but with 1700 lining paper the result should be an improvement over what was there before.


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